Types of Shoe Leather: Nappa, Nubuck, Suede, Patent and More
A short reference for shoemakers: how the main upper, lining and bottom leathers differ, and which one to choose for a given shoe.
Chrome vs vegetable tanning
Some 80–90% of the world's leather is chrome-tanned [1]. Chrome leather is soft, thin and colourfast and takes bright shades, so it is used for uppers and linings. Vegetable-tanned leather is firmer, develops a patina and burnishes well at the edges; it is used for soles and classic shoes [2]. Chrome-free (metal-free) leather is a separate option for buyers who care about composition.
Grain leathers: nappa, aniline, box calf
- Nappa is soft, smooth leather with a natural grain. Good for women's and comfort shoes.
- Aniline leather is dyed through with almost no surface coating, so the natural grain shows. Semi-aniline has a light protective finish.
- Box calf is a firm, smooth leather for classic men's shoes.
- Corrected grain leather is buffed and coated to hide defects. It is durable and economical, often used for safety shoes [3].
Napped leathers: nubuck, suede, split
Nubuck is the grain side buffed to a short, dense nap. Suede and velour come from the flesh side or a split and have a longer nap [4]. Split suede is cheaper than full suede and suits sneakers and casual shoes.
Effect leathers: patent, crazy horse, floater
- Patent has a high-gloss finish, used for evening and children's shoes.
- Crazy horse / pull-up is an oiled leather that lightens when flexed. Popular for boots.
- Floater is drum-milled for a soft, pronounced grain.
- Printed, embossed and metallic leathers give fashion surfaces such as croco, snake or metallic sheen.
Lining and bottom leather
Lining leather is made from cow, goat and sheep; it should be thin, soft and breathable (see our guide to lining leather). The bottom uses firm vegetable-tanned sole leather and insole leather.
Matching leather to the shoe
Shoe uppers are usually 1.2–1.6 mm [3]. Post Deri's upper and lining leathers are 0.8–1.6 mm, in a 33-colour chart.
- Men's classic: box calf, semi-aniline, crazy horse.
- Women's and comfort: nappa, aniline, floater, suede.
- Boots and work shoes: waxed leather, corrected grain, nubuck.
- Sneakers and casual: nubuck, split suede, nappa.
27 shoe leathers made in Türkiye — upper, lining, sole and shearling — in a 33-colour chart. From a single roll, shipped from Istanbul to the Balkans, the Caucasus, Central Asia, the Middle East and North Africa.
WhatsApp for price and samplesRelated leathers
More guides
- Silvateam, share of chrome tanning: https://www.silvateam.com/en/products-and-services/leather-tanning-solutions/ecotan-tanning-processes/hybrid-chrome-tanning.html
- Gentleman's Gazette, chrome vs veg-tanned: https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/chrome-vs-veg-tanned/
- TL San Martín, types of leather: https://tlsanmartin.com/en/guides/types-of-leather/
- Tekstil Bilgi, shoe leather types: https://tekstilbilgi.net/ayakkabilik-deri-cesitleri.html