Post Deri, Istanbul, since 1980 · Updated: 2026-09-27

Shoe Leather Thickness and Grading: Specs and How to Inspect a Shipment

Thickness and grade decide cutting yield, fit and cost per pair. Here are the usual specs and a simple routine for checking a shipment on arrival.

Thickness by use

• Uppers: usually 1.2–1.6 mm ^[1]; around 2 mm on some classic men's shoes ^[2].
• Linings: 0.5–1.0 mm, heavier in boots.
• Insoles: around 2.5 mm ^[2]; Post Deri insole leather is 1.8–3.0 mm.
• Soles: around 5 mm ^[2]; Post Deri sole leather is 3.5–5.5 mm.

Ounces, millimetres and square feet

Price lists in English often give thickness in ounces: 1 oz ≈ 0.4 mm ^[3]. Leather area is often traded in square feet: 1 sq ft = 9.29 dm² and 1 m² ≈ 10.76 sq ft. Keep these conversions at hand when comparing suppliers.

What grading means

Leather is graded by the share of usable, defect-free area. A common method puts grade 1 at 90–100% usable area, grade 2 at 80–90% and grade 3 at 70–80% ^[4]. A higher grade means less cutting waste, so cheap low-grade leather is not always cheaper per pair.

How to inspect a shipment

1. Thickness. Measure with a gauge at several points on each hide: in the centre (bend) and towards the edges.
2. Colour. Compare with the approved sample in daylight. Batch-to-batch shade differences are a common cause of rejects.
3. Grain. Fold the leather grain side out: good leather does not crack or show coarse wrinkling (loose grain).
4. Defects. Check for holes, scratches, brand marks and veins, and note the area they take up.
5. Rub test. Rub with a damp white cloth, especially linings.
6. Area. Match the area on the packing list with the marking on the hides.

How we help

Every item in Post Deri's catalogue lists thickness and tannage. Before a first order you can get samples and a physical colour card for codes PD-01 to PD-33 to approve the shade.

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